Articles & Resources

Testing the "600 Watt" CC/CV Boost Converter: Voltage Drop, Thermals, and Limits

This compact 85x62mm boost converter claims 600 watts of power for under $20. Our bench tests reveal it is a great value for stepping up 12V or 24V, provided you add active cooling. However, users should be aware of its weak stock fuse and inability to regulate current down to zero amps.

Boost vs. Buck Converters: When You Actually Need a Boost-Buck Circuit

While boost and buck converters are essential tools for voltage regulation, they have limitations—specifically an internal voltage drop of around 1.5V. This article explores why a standard converter fails when charging a 3S Lithium-Ion battery from a 12V source and how a "Boost-Buck" circuit solves this by boosting for headroom before regulating down to zero volts for safe, efficient charging.

Pulse Arc vs. Resistive Spot Welding: Do You Actually Need the Upgrade?

Pulse arc welding is like firing a "tiny lightning bolt" at your battery cells. While it offers incredible efficiency and power for its size compared to traditional resistive welders, the learning curve is steep. In this article, we analyze if this new technology is actually necessary for DIY battery builders or if you are better off sticking to the basics.

Lithium-Ion Cell Balancing: How to Force a BMS to Balance

Struggling with an unbalanced battery? Discover how to manually force a cheap, non-configurable BMS to balance lithium-ion cells by creating the specific voltage conditions needed for activation.

Shunt Mods Explained: How to Trick Your Controller for More Power

A shunt mod is a popular "hack" that tricks your motor controller into delivering more amps than its factory limit.2 By lowering the resistance of the internal current shunt with a simple solder modification, you can gain significant torque and speed. However, this trick comes with physical costs: square-law heating ($I^2R$) and reduced safety margins. This guide explains exactly how the controller measures current and how to estimate your new limits without blowing up your MOSFETs.

Understanding Reverse Charging: How It Happens and Why It Destroys Batteries

Reverse charging occurs when a deep-discharged cell within a battery pack is driven into negative voltage by the surrounding healthy cells. This process causes irreversible chemical damage, including the dissolution of the anode’s copper current collector and the formation of dangerous dendrites. This article explores the mechanics of this failure, the heat generation that follows, and why a functioning Battery Management System (BMS) is your only line of defense.

So Is It 3.6V or 3.7V? The Real Problem With Nominal Voltage

Nominal voltage is a marketing convenience, not a physical reality. Discover why relying on this "average" number can ruin your lithium battery build, why "12V" batteries don't exist, and which metrics actually matter for compatibility.

Performance Loss As A Result Of Series Connections

What specific things about a copper battery are better than a nickel battery? Will it perform better under load? Will I feel additional power and acceleration as a result of using copper? Will my battery have a higher range if I build it with copper? Will my copper battery be able to endure more charge and discharge cycles than my nickel battery?

LFP vs. NMC: The Real “Lithium-ion vs. Lithium-ion” Battery Comparison

Many articles frame “LFP vs. lithium-ion” incorrectly—LFP is lithium-ion. The real matchup is LFP vs. NMC. Here’s how they compare on energy density, cycle life, safety, cost, cold-weather performance, and charging speed.